A Material Culture: Ottoman Velvets and Their Owners, 1600–1750
This article traces changes in Ottoman voided and brocaded velvets (çatma) between the years of 1580 and 1740. It argues that demand for a distinctive type of cushion cover—which became an emblem of refined taste—substantially changed the nature of silk production in the weaving center of Bursa. Usi...
Main Author: | |
---|---|
Format: | Electronic Article |
Language: | English |
Check availability: | HBZ Gateway |
Journals Online & Print: | |
Fernleihe: | Fernleihe für die Fachinformationsdienste |
Published: |
Brill
2014
|
In: |
Muqarnas
Year: 2014, Volume: 31, Issue: 1, Pages: 151-172 |
Further subjects: | B
material culture
Ottoman
luxury
velvet
silk
furnishings
upholstery
textiles
weavers
artisans
guilds
price history
consumption history
fashion
distinction
India
|
Online Access: |
Volltext (Verlag) |
MARC
LEADER | 00000caa a22000002 4500 | ||
---|---|---|---|
001 | 1562016008 | ||
003 | DE-627 | ||
005 | 20240316100217.0 | ||
007 | cr uuu---uuuuu | ||
008 | 170808s2014 xx |||||o 00| ||eng c | ||
024 | 7 | |a 10.1163/22118993-00311P07 |2 doi | |
035 | |a (DE-627)1562016008 | ||
035 | |a (DE-576)492016003 | ||
035 | |a (DE-599)BSZ492016003 | ||
040 | |a DE-627 |b ger |c DE-627 |e rakwb | ||
041 | |a eng | ||
084 | |a 0 |2 ssgn | ||
100 | 1 | |0 (DE-588)143200909 |0 (DE-627)704418908 |0 (DE-576)335603130 |4 aut |a Phillips, Amanda | |
109 | |a Phillips, Amanda | ||
245 | 1 | 0 | |a A Material Culture: Ottoman Velvets and Their Owners, 1600–1750 |
264 | 1 | |c 2014 | |
300 | |a Online-Ressource | ||
336 | |a Text |b txt |2 rdacontent | ||
337 | |a Computermedien |b c |2 rdamedia | ||
338 | |a Online-Ressource |b cr |2 rdacarrier | ||
520 | |a This article traces changes in Ottoman voided and brocaded velvets (çatma) between the years of 1580 and 1740. It argues that demand for a distinctive type of cushion cover—which became an emblem of refined taste—substantially changed the nature of silk production in the weaving center of Bursa. Using estate inventories to trace the quantities and prices of çatma cushion covers, several trends emerge, the most significant being an increasing range of prices for the same category of textile and a sudden jump in çatma prices for the years after 1720 or so. Moreover, through technical analysis of extant çatmas, the agility with which the weavers diversified their production becomes clear. Finally, analysis coupled with price history also reveals a surprising fact: the new, elegant, and apparently sought-after style of çatma cushion cover commanded a higher price but cost less to weave. | ||
650 | 4 | |a material culture |x Ottoman |x luxury |x velvet |x silk |x furnishings |x upholstery |x textiles |x weavers |x artisans |x guilds |x price history |x consumption history |x fashion |x distinction |x India | |
773 | 0 | 8 | |i In |t Muqarnas |d Leiden : Brill, 1983 |g 31(2014), 1, Seite 151-172 |h Online-Ressource |w (DE-627)336154003 |w (DE-600)2060663-1 |w (DE-576)121599442 |x 2211-8993 |7 nnns |
773 | 1 | 8 | |g volume:31 |g year:2014 |g number:1 |g pages:151-172 |
856 | 4 | 0 | |u http://dx.doi.org/10.1163/22118993-00311P07 |x Verlag |3 Volltext |
935 | |a mteo | ||
951 | |a AR | ||
ELC | |a 1 | ||
ITA | |a 1 |t 1 | ||
LOK | |0 000 xxxxxcx a22 zn 4500 | ||
LOK | |0 001 2976872767 | ||
LOK | |0 003 DE-627 | ||
LOK | |0 004 1562016008 | ||
LOK | |0 005 20170808150926 | ||
LOK | |0 008 170808||||||||||||||||ger||||||| | ||
LOK | |0 040 |a DE-Tue135 |c DE-627 |d DE-Tue135 | ||
LOK | |0 092 |o n | ||
LOK | |0 852 |a DE-Tue135 | ||
LOK | |0 852 1 |9 00 | ||
LOK | |0 935 |a bril | ||
ORI | |a SA-MARC-ixtheoa001.raw | ||
REL | |a 1 | ||
SUB | |a REL |